Director of Research at Medik8, Daniel Isaacs talks all things Bakuchiol Peptides

Lipstick was once a girls best friend, but now it is the powerful and results driven skin-care ingredient, Retinol. We talk to Daniel Isaacs, the Director of research at Medik8 about Vitamin A, the benefits, and the new breakthrough ingredient, Bakuchiol.

Bakuchiol is a gentle, plant-derived ingredient that is an alternative for those who can’t tolerate Retinol, that are looking to promote a more youthful looking complexion. But the question is, does it really work?

Read on to learn more about the difference between the derivatives and substitutes of Vitamin A, and why they are the most effective weapons for your skincare routine.

Describe the greatest benefits we receive through the use of topically applied Vitamin A?

When it comes to anti-ageing skincare, vitamin A is the absolute gold standard in keeping your skin looking younger for longer. Nothing even comes close to vitamin A in terms of the clinical evidence for its results and the amount of benefits it provides the skin.

Vitamin A is a vital part of any anti-ageing skincare routine because it can:

• Boost the production of collagen and elastin, for plumper, more youthful-looking skin

• Enhance the rate of cellular turnover, for a smoother skin surface

• Decrease melanin production for a more even skin tone

• Reduce sebum production to minimise blemish formation

• Help with UV repair, contrary to popular belief

Can you Explain when Vitamin A is safe and when it is not safe to use?

Vitamin A is safe to use year-round, but, the key to using vitamin A safely in the summer is sunscreen. Lots and lots of sunscreen.

However, vitamin A is one of the ingredients to avoid when pregnant. While topical vitamin A is the ‘gold-standard’ in anti-ageing for your skin with a long history of safe use, oral vitamin A (retinoids) has been shown to interfere with fetal development.[1] Therefore, as a precaution we always recommend avoiding the use of vitamin A during this time, including retinol and retinaldehyde.

Are there Vitamin A derivatives or natural sources available to us and why might we opt for this?

Yes - Bakuchiol is the ultimate plant-based vitamin A alternative. While vitamin A is known as the gold-standard of anti-ageing, we are confident that bakuchiol is the best alternative option for skins that can’t tolerate the powers of retinol. For example, those that are pregnant and nursing*, or those with super-sensitive skin.

What is Bakuchiol?

Bakuchiol is a natural, plant-based retinol alternative. It is derived from the seeds and leaves of the Indian Babchi Plant. It has been clinically proven to harness anti-ageing powers that are comparable to retinol, without any side effects that can sometimes occur with vitamin A use.

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Due to media hype, many consumers are now confusing bakuchiol with vitamin A - how does it compare to retinoids?

Bakuchiol and retinol can both help to visibly reduce fine lines and wrinkles. They also help to speed up cellular turnover in the skin, giving it a smoother, softer surface. Retinol and bakuchiol also both help to stimulate the production of collagen and elastin - for a more youthful-looking, plumper complexion. They also can help to hinder excess production of melanin, leaving the skin evenly-toned and brightened.

Key differences are that as an ingredient, bakuchiol is a lot more gentle on the skin than retinol, working to naturally soothe and calm the skin. Bakuchiol is also photostable, and can be used day and night. Vitamin A on the other hand, may not be photostable but is still considered to be the ‘gold-standard’ in anti-ageing due to unparalleled results and scientific data.

What makes Medik8’s Bakuchiol Peptide unique?

At Medik8 we use PURE Bakuchiol. It’s an amazing ingredient and can work wonders for the skin. Bakuchiol is currently trending in skincare because of a new study published by the British Journal of Dermatology. This study proves bakuchiol to be very similar in terms of anti-ageing efficacy to retinol, but without retinol-like side effects, for example the dryness some individuals experience. We use 1.25% in our Bakuchiol Peptides with a blend of brightening peptides - It provides similar results in all-round total skin rejuvenation helping to reduce the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles and improve overall skin texture and tone. The conditioning serum is incredibly soothing and calming on the skin, helping to visibly reduce any inflammation and redness. Visibly plumped and supple, the skin is left feeling soft and smooth.

What amazing results can I expect to achieve?

Bakuchiol is able to help prevent and restore signs of premature ageing, due to its antioxidant, collagen-stimulating and hydrating properties. Bakuchiol is also a great for clear skin, as it uses it’s gentle anti-inflammatory powers to minimise the formation of blemishes and to calm the skin. Finally, it can help to minimise the appearance of pigmentation and brighten the skin tone.

Why is using a serum so important in my skincare routine?

Serums are an essential part of any good skincare regime. They help deliver powerful active ingredients directly into the skin - making them a great tool for targeting specific skincare concerns, like wrinkles.

Medik8 is well renowned for having some of the best serums on the market why is that?

At Medik8 we are dedicated to quality - our formulas are carefully crafted in our in-house labs in the UK as well as being blended and packaged here. This gives us the visibility of the entire manufacturing process from start to finish to guarantee the highest efficacy.

All Medik8 products are ‘proven’ and built on research published in well respected and renowned journals, our formulas are stable - a critical factor in ensuring the highest performing adjective skincare. We use clean formulas which are safe not only for the skin but also the environment and don’t compromise on experience.

Is there a complimentary product, a sort of Thelma & Louise dynamic duo you would recommend to marry well with Bakuchiol Peptides?

The secret to Beautiful Skin for Life is the same for all of us: vitamin C plus sunscreen by day, vitamin A by night. Therefore, Bakuchiol Peptides is perfect for those looking for a substitute for vitamin A in their CSA routines - the missing piece of the puzzle for some of you out there. This can include those with extremely sensitive skin, slight intolerances to vitamin A, or as we mentioned earlier - if you are pregnant or nursing.* So use Bakuchiol Peptides with vitamin C and sunscreen to complete your Medik8 CSA Philosophy.

*Of course, due to ethical considerations the Bakuchiol Peptides formula has not been tested on pregnant women, but there is nothing in the formula which is known to be an issue (eg vitamin A or high levels of exfoliating acids). If you are at all concerned, always consult your doctor.

Daniel Isaacs, Director of Research at Medik8